I-Lace Ribbon Trim
Ileyisi luhlobo lwe-embroidery, eyaziwa nangokuthi "umzobo".Yimveliso ehonjisiweyo ehonjisiweyo eyenziwe ngentambo yomqhaphu, intambo ye-hemp, intambo yesilika okanye amalaphu ahlukeneyo, ephothiweyo okanye ephothiweyo.
Ukucheba iileyisi zokuhombisa
Kukho iipateni ezahlukeneyo kunye neepateni, ezisetyenziswa njengamalaphu okuhombisa iribhoni, asetyenziswa njengezinto zokubumba okanye imida yeempahla ezahlukeneyo, amalengalenga, amalaphu etafile, amalaphu etafile, iibhedi zokulala, izibane zokulala, izinto zokulala, njl.Ilayisi edityaniswe ngomsonto wesilika isetyenziswa kakhulu phakathi kohlanga oluncinci kwilizwe lethu, ngoko ikwabizwa ngokuba yintambo yobuhlanga.Uninzi lweepateni zisebenzisa iipateni ezithandekayo.I-lace ephothiweyo inokwakheka okuqinileyo, ipateni emithathu-ntathu kunye nemibala ecebileyo.Ileyisi enithiweyo ine-weave ekhululekileyo kunye ne-eyelets ezibalaseleyo zokukhanya kunye nenkangeleko entle.Inani lemibala ye-embroidery lace ayikhawulelwanga, kwaye iipatheni ezinzima zinokuveliswa.Ilayisi ephothiweyo yenziwe ngumatshini weleyisi okanye ilukwe ngesandla.
Ileyisi yaseTshayina
Ileyisi yaseTshayina yaqala kade noko.Phambi kweminyaka yee-1980, oomatshini bokwaluka iileyisi babethengwa kakhulu kumazwe angaphandle.Ekuqaleni kweminyaka yoo-1990, iNantong, iJiangsu yafunxa iimpawu zoomatshini bangaphandle, idityaniswe nemeko yokwenyani eTshayina, yaza yaphuhlisa ngokuzimeleyo umatshini wokuqala weleyisi welizwe lam, waza wadlula iShenzhen Lace Factory njengeyunithi yokulinga.Ukususela ngoko, ingxaki yokuba oomatshini be-lace baseTshayina kufuneka bangeniswe ngaphandle.
Ukuhlelwa kweLeyisi
Ilayisi encamathelayo, iQingzhoufu lace (yahlulwe yaziindidi ezimbini zeleyisi yemangong kunye neleyisi yemosaic), imihombiso eqingqwe ecaba, ishuttle lace, iJimo lace, ileyisi ebanjwa ngesandla, ileyisi ye-EMI, ileyisi yokuhombisa, intambo ephothiweyo, ileyisi elukwe ngomatshini... IMangong Ileyisi yenziwe ngentambo yomqhaphu esulungekisiweyo, kwaye ilukwe yaziipateni ezahlukeneyo zodidi ngokulukwa okusicaba, ukuluka okushiyana ngezithuba, ukuluka kancinci, kunye neendlela zokuluka ezixineneyo, kwaye iyonke inefuthe lobugcisa lomsebenzi ovulekileyo.Ilayisi eyenziwe nge-mosaic yenziwe ngeleyisi elukiweyo njengowona mzimba uphambili, kwaye ihonjiswe ngelaphu lelinen.Iimveliso zibandakanya ii-cushions zeplate, iifake ezincinci kunye neetafile, ii-bedspreads, i-lace craft ambrellas, njl.
I-United States yeyokuqala ukubonakala kweleyisi.Ukwenza yinkqubo entsonkothileyo.Ngokungafaniyo ne-crochet yendabuko okanye i-embroidery, iincwadi ziboshwe ngentambo yesilika okanye intambo ngokwefuthe lepateni.Xa usenza, umsonto wesilika kufuneka udluliselwe kwiishuttles ezincinci nganye nganye.Isiphekepheke ngasinye silingana nobhontsi kuphela.Ipateni engantsonkothanga kakhulu ifuna iishuttles ezincinci ezingamakhulu okanye eziphantse zibe likhulu.Xa usenza, beka ipateni ezantsi, kwaye usebenzise ukuluka ezahlukeneyo, i-knotting, ukujija kunye nezinye iindlela zokwenza ngokuhambelana nomzekelo.
Ileyisi yeJacquard
(UJacquard, uJoseph Marie, 1752 ~ 1834), umchwephesha waseFransi, umguquleli oyintloko womatshini wejacquard wepatheni.Ekuqaleni kwenkulungwane ye-18, umchwephesha waseFransi u-Bouchon wenza umatshini we-jacquard wephepha-umngxuma osekelwe kumgaqo we-jacquard yamandulo yaseShayina.Wasebenzisa iteyiphu yephepha ukugqobhoza imingxuma yokulawula ukungena kwethinja kwaye endaweni yeendawo zokuluka eziluka kwincwadi yeentyatyambo.Emva kokuphuculwa kweFalcon, iWo Kangsong kunye nabanye, inokuvelisa iinaliti ezingama-600 zamalaphu epateni amakhulu.Ngo-1799, i-Jacquard yaqulunqa iimpumelelo ezintsha zangaphambili kwaye yenza iseti epheleleyo yekhadibhodi yokuhambisa indlela, eyayixhotyiswe ngomatshini we-pedal jacquard ogqibeleleyo, onokuluka iipateni ezinkulu ezinenaliti ezingaphezu kwama-600 kuphela ngumntu omnye.Lo matshini wejacquard waphumelela imbasa yobhedu kuMboniso waseParis ngowe-1801. Indlela esebenza ngayo ibonakaliswa ngokusebenzisa ibhodi yepateni yejacquard, oko kukuthi, ikhadi elinemingxuma endaweni yeteyiphu yephepha, ukuqhuba ulandelelwano oluthile lweehuku zokuthunga ngomatshini wokuhambisa, kwaye ukuphakamisa intambo yokuluka ukuluka ipateni ngokwentshukumo elungelelanisiweyo yombutho wepateni.Emva ko-1860, amandla omphunga asetyenziswa endaweni yokuhanjiswa kwe-pedal kwaye yaba ngumatshini we-jacquard ozenzekelayo.Kamva, yasasazwa ngokubanzi kumazwe asehlabathini lonke, yaye yaqaliswa ngeenjini zombane.Ukukhumbula igalelo likaJacquard, lo matshini we-jacquard ubizwa ngokuba ngumatshini weJacquard.
I-Cotton Lace Trim
Ilayisi yomqhaphu ikwabizwa ngokuba: intambo yomqhaphu ecocekileyo, ileyisi ephothiweyo, intambo yomqhaphu, intambo yomqhaphu.Ilayisi yomqhaphu yenziwa ikakhulu ngelaphu yomqhaphu, kwaye umsonto womqhaphu uneendidi ezimbini: ezikhazimlisiweyo nezingamenyeziyo.Iimpawu zayo zimi ngolu hlobo lulandelayo ngokwemigangatho yobuchwephesha: i-42 intambo ibala i-4 strands kunye ne-6 strands, i-60 ibala i-4 strands kunye ne-6 strands, i-white waxy tower wire, njl..Imifuziselo yayo yi-S424, S426, S604, S606, kwaye ingarekhodwa njenge-42S/4, 42S/6, 60S/4, 60S/6, apho u-S ebonisa ukubala umsonto, kwaye inani eliphantsi kwesisilayi libonisa inani imicu;Iimilo ezahlukeneyo zinokwahlulwa zibe ngamasi kunye ne-hank.
Oomatshini abaphambili bemveliso ye "disc machine" ye-cotton lace: iinkcukacha eziphambili zangoku ziyi-64 spindles, i-96 spindles kunye ne-128 spindles.Umgaqo osebenzayo womatshini wediski kukulukwa kwezikhonkwane.Isebenzisa umsonto womqhaphu njengeyona nto iphambili ekrwada.Izinto zomshini wediski nazo ziyimisonto yendalo efana nekotoni, ilinen, uboya kunye nesilika, kunye nemisonto yefiber yekhemikhali, imicu yefiber yekhemikhali, igolide kunye nesilivere, i-rayon, intyatyambo yeSitayile intambo, intambo edibeneyo, i-glitter, i-anyanisi yesilivere, intambo yeribhoni.Ileyisi yomqhaphu yenziwe ngelaphu yomqhaphu ekumgangatho ophezulu, enombala okhawulezayo, umsebenzi omhle, imvakalelo ethambileyo yesandla, ipateni yenoveli, kunye nezitayile ezahlukeneyo.Isetyenziswa kakhulu kwiibras, iimpahla zangaphantsi, iipijama, ifashoni, ibhedi, iikawusi, iiambrela, iithoyi kunye nemisebenzi yezandla.
Ubuchwephesha bokucheba iileyisi
Ileyisi elukwe ngoomatshini abahlukeneyo.
Ekupheleni kwekhulu le-18, kwinkqubo yokuphucula i-stocking looms, iYurophu yazama ukusebenzisa oomatshini ukuvelisa i-lace.Ngowe-1808, iBritani
Umatshini wokuvelisa i-mesh braids uyilwe kwaye waziwa kwiminyaka emibini kamva.Ngo-1813, e-Nottingham, eNgilani yavelisa i-lace ye-lace yeplanga enesixhobo se-jacquard, esinokuvelisa i-mesh braids, eyaziwa ngokuba ngumatshini we-Rivers, kwaye sele ibizwa ngoku.Ngomnyaka we-1846, kwavela intambo yentambo yomkhusane eNottingham.Kungekudala, kwaphuma oomatshini abakwazi ukuluka amalaphu ahlukeneyo okuhombisa.Ukususela ngowe-1900 ukuya kowe-1910, ishishini leentambo elenziwe ngoomatshini eYurophu lalichumile kakhulu.Oomatshini banokuxelisa iziphumo ezahlukeneyo zeleyisi ezenziwe ngesandla.Ukususela ngoko, i-lace eyenziwe ngomatshini ithathe indawo ye-lace eyenziwe ngesandla.Ileyisi eyenziwe ngoomatshini inokwahlulwa ngokweendidi ezine ngokwenkqubo: ukuluka, ukunitha, ukuhombisa, kunye nokuluka.
① Ileyisi elukiweyo
Yenziwe nge-interweaving warp kunye ne-weft phantsi kolawulo lwe-jacquard mechanism.Izinto ezidla ngokusetyenziswa ekrwada yintambo yomqhaphu, igolide nesilivere, intambo yerayon, ipolyester, intambo yesilika ye-tussah, njl njl.Ububanzi beleyisi yi-3 ~ 170mm.I-Lace shading weaves ibandakanya i-plain, i-twill, i-satin, i-honeycomb, iipateni ezincinci, njl.
② Ileyisi ezinithiweyo
Ngowe-1955, amazwe aseYurophu naseMelika aqala ukuvelisa iileyisi ezinithiweyo koomatshini bokunitha beebhari ezininzi.Uninzi lwemathiriyeli ekrwada ngumsonto wenayiloni, umsonto wepolyester, njl.I-lace edibeneyo ikhululekile, enemingxuma ebonakalayo, kwaye imilo ilula kwaye intle.
③Ileyisi yokuhombisa
Yaqala ukudalwa eSwitzerland nakwiFederal Republic yaseJamani.Ilawula umatshini wokuthunga ukuya phezulu, ezantsi, ekhohlo, kwaye ekunene ngebhodi yepateni, kwaye ngokutshintshiselana ngokuzenzekelayo inaliti kunye ne-shuttle, intambo ephezulu kunye nentambo engezantsi idibaniswe ukwenza ipateni.Ileyisi ehonjisiweyo inomsebenzi oncomekayo, imilo yeentyatyambo egqamileyo kunye nesiphumo esomeleleyo samacala amathathu.
④ Ileyisi elukiweyo
Ilukwe ngomatshini weleyisi wetorque.Umsonto womqhaphu yeyona nto iphambili.Ngexesha lokuluka, ikhadibhodi ilawula ukujija kunye nokuhamba kwe-spool, ukwenzela ukuba imisonto idityaniswe kunye yenze ipateni.Umatshini weleyisi we-torque unokuluka imicu emininzi yeleyisi ngaxeshanye, kwaye ususe unxibelelwano phakathi kweentambo emva kokuphuma kumatshini ukwenza umtya omnye.Ubume belayisi elukiweyo bukhululekile kwaye bunomoya, kwaye imilo igudileyo kwaye intle.
Singathanda ukuva kuwe.
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